I did something yesterday I haven't done in a LOOOOOONNNGGGGG time. I went surfing. It's rare that Pismo Beach is nice, not freezing, not foggy, and not completely blown out. I used to surf at least 3-5 times a week when I worked for the fire department and was part of, and running, the lifeguard and junior lifeguard divisions. It was a VERY important part of what I did and what I loved to do. I would watch all the old surf movies and be so into the old school classic idea and thoughts of surfing. I would research boards, fin shapes, rail shapes, ocean currents, wind directions, ocean floor topography, etc. And even though I would get into all the little technical parts of surfing, what I loved most about it was just the feeling of hanging out, the calming feel of the water and the slide along the wave. The power I felt as I would control my board across natures water dance. It made me feel good, happy. I wasn't going out looking for massive waves or even the adrenaline rush that many look for. I wanted the calm. The fun. The smiles. As I paddled into the water today, without a wetsuit and not even being cold at all....a MASSIVE PLUS, I hopped up to my knees and did my old school knee paddling. The smell of the salt, the feel of the water, the sounds, brought me right back to THAT place. I had so many memories flashing through my head. I loved it. I have no idea when the next time I'll be able to do that again. To take that time and make that jump back to those times and feel that same feeling but I do know that it's important to do things like this for yourself. Everyone has their own thing that triggers this feeling and whatever it is, we NEED to make sure that we can do it. Or at least TRY to do it. The things we get from it are WAY too important to help with the stresses of our daily life. I'm not saying to lose yourself in the activity for hours on end. I'm saying get SOME time on it. It might only be 30 minutes or an hour. All I can say is it's UNREAL how it made me feel and I need to be sure to get this again so that it will help me be better with all the other parts of my life. Even if you do the GRIND, you have to oil the gears to keep them clicking. Don't blow this off. It's important! :)
FEEL THE BURN!!!
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